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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. Yet, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary honour.